(Sustainability has become an issue of paramount importance in the fashion industry, and rightfully so. However, it has also given rise to a number of brands resorting to greenwashing in order to sell more goods based on nothing but random blanket statements.
‘Greenwashing’ is a term that was coined by NY-based environmentalist Jay Westerveld in 1986, inspired by the irony of the "save the towel" movement in hotels that suggested themselves as being environmentally friendly for giving guests the option to not have their towels washed every day. Westerveld found that this tricked guests into thinking the hotel was environmentally conscious when it was just saving money. Today, greenwashing has taken new forms with the use of buzzwords like eco-conscious, sustainable, environmentally-friendly, among many more as mere marketing gimmicks that have no real proof backing them. This is where sustainable certifications come into play. According to a study by the Changing Markets Foundation, a social and environmental advocacy group, states that 67% of consumers say they struggle to determine which clothing brands or suppliers meet higher ethical standards and only 1 in 5 trusts the sustainability information provided by brands themselves. The study also found that almost half (44%) trust third-party certifications the most. So what are these certifications, really?
Sustainable certifications help brands incorporate critical production criteria and compliance requirements from the design stage to the end of the life-cycle. Attaining certifications involves the auditing of a company’s structure and inner workings like legal compliance, appropriate water resources management, waste and energy management, among many more. The fashion industry now has a slew of certifications but deciphering them can make matters murky. Listed below are some of the most common certifications that consumers should look out for as a means to avoid greenwashing and educate themselves;
- Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): Globally recognised as the leading processing standard for textiles made from organic fibres, the certification indicates that the product is definitely organic through every stage or production from ginning to the labelling of the final product.
- Oeko-Tex Standard 100: This label guarantees every component of a product; right from the thread, to the buttons and other accessories, have been tested for harmful substances or chemicals and is deemed harmless.
- Better Cotton Initiative (BCI): The BCI exists to make global cotton production better for the people who produce it and better for the environment it grows in. Their resulting crop, 'Better Cotton' is used in textile production alongside conventional cotton. For brands or retailers to use this certification, they must source at least 5% Better Cotton in their products and commit to increase this to 50% in five years.
- Bluesign: This certification takes into account everything from water conservation to chemical usage and dye toxicity in an effort to protect the environment and the wearer.
- Fair Wear Foundation: Brands that wear the Fair Wear Foundation logo have taken initiative to improve the conditions of garment workers and their workplace conditions in 11 production countries across Asia, Europe and Africa.
- B Corp: Certified B Corporations are businesses that meet the highest standards of verified social and environmental performance, public transparency, and legal accountability to balance profit and purpose.
- Forest Stewardship Council (FSC): This certification tends to refer to the packaging used for shipments or where cellulose fibres made from trees – such as viscose, lyocell or modal. It ensures that products come from responsibly managed forests that provide environmental, social and economic benefits.
Published by: Vibhuti Vazirani/ 2020-03-09